Game Designer: Unknown
Game Designer: Unknown
FrankenTimer Housing
3D Printable Housing for KoTH Timer
The models available for download and information on this page is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Noncommercial - ShareAlike license.
Here is a video where I talk about printing the parts. I did not need to use any supports when printing these and was able to print all parts using a Ender 3.
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The guide below is meant to be paired with the video at the top of this page and the electronics guide.
Let's make building FrankenTimer easier.
One of my biggest lessons learned in this journey is that wire management is essential and that making custom wires/ housing is time consuming. I therefore set out to address those two topics.
It is not necessary to utilize my 3D models but it should make building the timer significantly easier. There are three sets of files: the core, the shell and the alternate.
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Core
The core is the brain of the timer and is where the Arduino, LCD, battery, charging cable, data cable, mp3 (option A), rotary encoder, power switch, and twist caps are stored. The core can be installed in the shell I designed or into a container of your choosing.
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Shell
The shell is designed to house the core and makes for a compact timer unit that can be easily transported and stored. The shell is also where the buttons, LEDs, and mp3 (option B) are mounted.
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Alternate (Still Pending)
The alternate models are meant to be utilzed when you decide to mount the core in a container other than my shell. It provides mounting points and cover plates.
Parts List for Housing:
Amazon Affiliate Links Included
Housing Items:
$17 - M3 Bolts (Assorted pack, 8X 40mm, 13X 14mm, 6X 10mm)
$6 - #2 Screws (100 pack, only need 2-4)
$23 - Black Filament (I'm not sure but probably at least a kg)
$6 - Zip Ties (Assorted pack, probably around 10 needed)
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You can pick up some of the items from home depot but I included links for those who want them. For the core you can use whatever color filament you want. For the shell you will want to use a darker filament to provide contrast to the LEDs. You may be able to scrounge the #2 screws from an old blaster.
Tools List:
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3D Printer (I used an Ender 3)
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Soldering Iron and solder (I also had special tips for my heat inserts)
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Screw driver
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Tape (I used mailing tape)
Step 1: Install Heat Inserts, cut wires & solder all the Joints
Install the heat inserts per the figures below. Video
Cut wire lengths per the table below. The connector column indicates which connector remains on the wire you will use. I also used some tape so I could label which wire was which.
For soldering check out the assembly video at the top of the page and the electronics guide.
Step 2: Install Components
Mount the Rotary Encoder, LCD, and Arduino using M3 10mm bolts at the locations indicated below. Video
Step 3: Install wires in Layer 5 & 6
Temporarily install layer 5 onto layer 6. Install the wires into the arduino, layer 6 and layer 5 by feeding them into the wire channels in the prints. Below is the full diagram but I also broke it out into smaller diagrams below. Video
Step 4: Install power switch and wires in Layer 3
Install power switch and wires onto layer 3. Video
Step 6: Install base, access door, shell, battery door, LEDs, buttons, name plate, and top cover
Use M3 40mm bolts to attach the base to the layers 7 & 6.
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Use M3 14 mm bolts to attach the access door, base, battery door and top cover.
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Step 7: Alternate Configuration
Warning! make sure the battery is disconnected when doing the wiring.
Solder two red (positive) 18 awg wires to each of the terminals on the on/off (power) switch. Install the on/off switch in the housing prior to connecting the wires to the other locations. Two wires from one terminal go to the USB connectors (which can just be screwed on), the two wires from the other terminal go to the twist cap junctions TC-2 and TC-3.
Connect the the black (negative) 18 awg wires from the USB connectors to twist cap TC-1. Connect a 18 awg wire between TC-1 and TC-4. Next connect the brown/black (GND) wire from the buttons, LCD, rotary encoder, LED to TC-1. Connect the Arduino and mp3 GND wires to TC-4. I run all of the DuPont wires to the twist cap before I cut them so they are nice and neat.
Finally, connect the LED and LCD 5V wires to TC-2 and the Arduino and mp3 5V (VCC) wires to twist cap TC-3. The reason for the extra twist caps is to make assembly easier and to possibly allow for future hardware upgrades.